A two-story great room is the room a home is designed around. The glass runs eighteen, twenty, sometimes twenty-four feet to the ceiling, and it is usually what the architect built the house to frame: a ravine, a mature tree line, an open field, or a view toward Lake Ontario. It is also the single most difficult room in the house to dress properly. The window coverings have to manage sun, privacy, sound and light at a scale where ordinary products simply stop working.
This guide covers how we approach window coverings for a two-story great room: the physics of the problem, the power and control decisions that should be made early, the fabric and tube engineering that keeps tall shades hanging true, and what a careful installation actually involves. It is written for homeowners, designers and builders working on custom homes in Oakville and King City.
The Short Answer First
For a two-story great room, the dependable solution is a hardwired, low-voltage motorized system built around properly sized industrial roller tubes, usually with the window wall divided into a lower and an upper zone. A solar roller shade in a 1%, 3% or 5% openness fabric manages glare, heat and UV while keeping the view. A dual shade adds a blackout layer for evening privacy, and motorized Ripplefold drapery softens the room acoustically and finishes it architecturally. The whole system is tied into the home's control platform and scheduled by the sun. Most importantly, it is planned at framing and rough-in, not after the paint is dry.
The Scale Problem in a Two-Story Great Room
Everything that is manageable on a standard window becomes a design problem at twenty feet. Four issues come up in almost every great room we are asked to resolve.
Solar Heat Gain and Glare
A wall of south- or west-facing glass behaves like a large heat source in the afternoon, even with modern low-E glazing. Because the glass is so tall, the sun also reaches deep into the room, and the upper panes deliver glare at eye level to the second-floor gallery or loft. A great room that is comfortable at ten in the morning can be unusable by four in the afternoon, and the air conditioning compensates by running harder against a very large volume of air.
UV Exposure, Hardwood Floors and Fine Art
Wide-plank white oak, walnut, and fine art are the materials most visibly affected by prolonged sun. Low-E glazing reduces UV transmission but does not eliminate it, and visible light and heat also contribute to fading. A correctly specified solar screen, drawn on a schedule rather than when someone remembers, reduces cumulative exposure meaningfully and protects the furnishings the room was built to show off.
Acoustic Echo
Tall ceilings, large glass surfaces and hard flooring such as wide-plank hardwood or porcelain slab create a reverberant space. Conversation carries, the television sounds harsher, and music loses definition. Glass is the largest reflective surface in the room, and it is also the largest surface available to treat. A roller shade alone does little for acoustics. Full-height fabric drapery does.
Evening Privacy
After dark, a two-story window wall becomes a lit display case visible from the street, the driveway or the neighbouring property. In Oakville's more compact lakefront lots, that exposure is immediate. On a King City estate, it is less about neighbours and more about the feeling of being on view in your own home. Either way, the room needs a way to close completely without losing the daytime experience of the glass.
Why Off-the-Shelf Shades Fail at This Scale
Retail and standard battery-operated consumer shades are engineered for windows of roughly standard residential size. At great room scale they fail in predictable ways. Tubes are too slim for the fabric weight and deflect or telescope. Small motors lack the torque for a long, heavy drop and run hot or stall. Battery packs sit at a height that cannot be reached without scaffolding. Brackets and headrails are not designed for the loads involved, and a shade cannot simply be cut down or stretched to fit when the window opening is not perfectly square. A two-story window wall needs to be treated as engineered architecture, not as a very large window.
Power and Motorization: Hardwired vs. Battery
Why Hardwired Matters Above 15 Feet
Below about fifteen feet, a battery motor is a convenience. Above it, a battery motor is a recurring maintenance event that requires scaffolding or a lift every time the pack needs replacing or recharging. In a finished great room with hardwood floors and furniture below, that is a disruptive, expensive service call for a task that should never be needed.
Hardwired low-voltage motorization, typically 24V DC, removes that dependency. The motors draw from a concealed power supply, deliver the sustained torque that tall, heavy drops require, and are controlled over low-voltage wiring back to the home's control system. Specific cable requirements depend on the motor platform, so the wiring is specified by the manufacturer and installed to its requirements. Line-voltage motors are also an option in certain applications, and are generally handled by a licensed electrician at rough-in. In both cases, the point is the same: power is provided at the head of the window, once, and it is never an issue again.
Concealing Motors and Wiring: Recessed Pockets vs. Architectural Fascias
A great room window wall has no tolerance for visible hardware. There are two clean ways to resolve the head detail.
- Recessed ceiling pockets. A pocket is built into the ceiling or soffit during framing, so the shade tube, motor and wiring disappear completely when the shade is raised. This is the most refined result and the one we recommend for new builds, but it must be coordinated with the framer and drywaller before the ceiling is closed.
- Architectural fascias. A slim, painted or finished fascia conceals the tube and motor on the face of the wall or ceiling. This is the practical solution for retrofits and for existing homes where opening the ceiling is not realistic, and it can be detailed to look intentional rather than added.
In both cases, the power supply and wiring should be accessible for service without scaffolding wherever the design allows, usually in a nearby closet, mechanical area or service panel.
Smart-Home Integration and Automated Scheduling
A great room's shades should respond to the sun, not to a remote someone has to find. Modern motor platforms integrate with the major home-control systems, including Control4, Lutron, Crestron, Somfy and Apple HomeKit, and allow shades to follow an astronomical clock: lowering a solar layer in the afternoon as the sun swings onto the glass, raising it at dusk, and closing the blackout or privacy layer at sunset as the room lights come on. Scenes can tie shades to lighting, climate and entertainment, so that "movie" or "evening" does everything at once.
Native compatibility varies by motor platform, so the control system should be chosen before the motors are ordered, ideally in conversation with the home's integrator. We coordinate with your integrator or designer so that the shades are programmed as part of the home's system, not as a separate remote on the coffee table.
Hardwired, Battery or Automated Dual: A Direct Comparison
| Consideration | Battery / Rechargeable | Hardwired Low-Voltage | Automated Dual Shade (Hardwired) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Best suited to | Lower windows, retrofits where wiring is not possible | Two-story solar or blackout shades | Great rooms needing daytime glare control and full evening privacy |
| Service at height | Scaffolding or lift for battery access | None for power; motor service only if required | None for power; motor service only if required |
| Torque for tall, heavy drops | Limited; suited to lighter, shorter shades | Sized to the fabric weight and drop | Sized for two fabric layers on one system |
| Smart-home integration | Varies; often limited | Full integration with major control platforms | Full integration, with independent scenes per layer |
| Pre-wiring needed | No | Ideal at rough-in; retrofit possible in most homes | Ideal at rough-in; retrofit possible in most homes |
| Daytime and evening control | Single layer | Single layer | Sheer or solar by day, blackout at night, on a schedule |
The showroom comes to your site
We bring full-size fabric books, motorization samples and laser measurement equipment to your home or job site in Oakville, King City and surrounding GTA communities. See the product in your own light, at your own scale.
Book a Consultation Motorization OptionsFabric Engineering, Tube Sizing and Deflection
The Physics of Tall Drops
A roller shade is a fabric wrapped around a tube, and at great room scale, both the fabric and the tube behave very differently. A long drop of fabric is heavy, and as it rolls up, it builds diameter on the tube. If the tube is undersized for the width and the fabric weight, it deflects under load, producing the visible centre-sag sometimes called the "smile effect," where the bottom rail curves rather than sitting straight. If the roll builds unevenly, the fabric drifts and curls at the edges, a problem known as telescoping or tracking, and the shade stops stacking cleanly.
The remedy is engineering rather than adjustment. Great room shades call for oversized industrial tubes, commonly in the range of 3 to 4 inches or more in diameter depending on width, fabric weight and drop, matched to a motor sized for the load. The fabric is selected for dimensional stability, cut and railroaded correctly, and the bottom rail is weighted to hang true. Manufacturer limits for width, drop and fabric weight are treated as hard constraints, not suggestions.
Splitting a Window Wall into Zones
Very often the best answer to a twenty-four-foot opening is not one shade but two. Dividing the glazing into a lower zone and an upper zone at the transom line, each with its own shade and motor, keeps the fabric drops within the range where the shades perform reliably and lets the two zones operate independently. The lower shade can close for privacy or glare at eye level while the upper glass remains open to the sky, or the upper zone can be lowered to cut high-angle sun without touching the view below. It also reduces the weight any one tube has to carry.
Openness Factors: Preserving the View, Managing the Sun
Solar screens are rated by openness factor, the percentage of the fabric weave that is open. The choice is a balance between view and control, and the right answer is different for a ravine in Oakville than for open farmland in King City.
- 1% openness. The tightest weave. It gives the most glare and heat control and the highest daytime privacy, with a softer view-through. Often the right choice for strong west exposure.
- 3% openness. The most common balance for great rooms. Glare is well controlled while the view of ravines, lake or landscape remains clear and natural.
- 5% openness. The most open. It preserves the clearest view and works well for north- and east-facing glass or for homes where the view is the priority and the sun is less aggressive.
Fabric colour matters as much as openness. Darker fabrics improve the view through the shade and cut glare, while lighter fabrics reflect more heat. Quality solar fabrics block the majority of UV, and many 1% to 5% screens block 95% or more, but the exact figures vary by fabric, so we work from the manufacturer's published data and show you samples in the room's actual light before anything is ordered.
Dual Shades and Motorized Ripplefold Drapery
A dual shade pairs a solar or sheer layer with a blackout layer on a single coordinated system. By day, the solar layer manages the sun and preserves the view. At night, or in a media-focused great room, the blackout layer closes and the room becomes private and dark. Each layer can be scheduled independently.
For acoustic softening and architectural finish, a motorized solar roller can be paired with floor-to-ceiling Ripplefold drapery on a heavy-duty motorized track. The fullness of the fabric absorbs sound that glass would otherwise reflect, the vertical lines emphasise the height of the room, and stacking the drapery to the side of the glass frees the window for the view when it is open. This layered combination is the one we are most often asked to design for great rooms in the area, because it addresses sun, privacy, sound and appearance in a single coordinated scheme.
Installation Logistics and White-Glove Execution
Installing a two-story system is a construction-adjacent project, and it is planned like one.
Digital Laser Measurement
On a custom home, no two openings are exactly alike, and tall openings magnify small errors. Framing that is a few millimetres out of square at the base can be considerably more at the head. We measure with commercial-grade digital laser equipment, recording width, height and squareness at multiple points, so that headrails, tubes and fabric are fabricated to the opening as it actually is, not as the drawings say it should be.
Scaffolding, Staging and Floor Protection
Reaching a twenty-foot head requires indoor scaffolding or a lift, and the surface below it matters. Custom white oak, wide-plank hardwood and heated porcelain slab all need protection from point loads, scuffing and debris. Staging is set up on load-spreading protection, with the floor covered and the work zone contained, and furniture and art are protected or moved before work begins. The aim is that the room is left as clean as it was found, with the system working and nothing to indicate how it was installed.
Coordination with Builders, Drywallers and Electricians
The best great room installations are decided months before the shades arrive. If you are building or renovating, the ideal sequence looks like this:
- At framing. Confirm the head detail (recessed pocket or fascia), the pocket dimensions and any blocking needed to carry the shade and drapery loads.
- At electrical rough-in. Run low-voltage cable, or line-voltage power if specified, to each window head and back to an accessible power supply location, with the motor platform's requirements confirmed in advance.
- Before drywall. Verify that pockets are built to size, that wiring is labelled and that the drywall details (returns, reveals and shadow gaps) match the shade design.
- At finishing. Install and program the shades and drapery once painting and flooring are complete, and commission them with the home's control system.
We work alongside your builder, designer, drywaller, electrician and integrator through this process, and can provide the specifications each trade needs so that nothing is improvised on site.
Plan the Window Coverings Before the Drywall Goes Up
A recessed pocket and a concealed power run cost very little at framing and rough-in and a great deal afterwards. If your great room is still under construction, share the window schedule and ceiling plans with us early, and we will provide pocket details and wiring requirements for your builder. Existing homes can be retrofitted successfully as well. See our motorization page for more.
Oakville and King City: Two Very Different Great Rooms
Oakville
In Oakville, particularly in neighbourhoods such as Eastlake and Morrison, we see two dominant types of home. The first is the modern lakefront or near-lake rebuild: crisp massing, large format glazing, and a great room that opens toward the water or a landscaped garden. Here the priority is a clean, minimal head detail, glare control on the southern exposure, and a system that disappears into the architecture. The second is the transitional estate, which blends traditional proportions with contemporary openness. There, layered treatments suit the home best, with a concealed solar roller beneath full-height custom drapery that adds warmth and scale to a tall room.
King City
King City homes tend to sit on acreage, with long sightlines, mature trees and open fields. Modern farmhouses with oversized cathedral glazing are especially common, with gabled window walls that rise to a peak and sometimes angle in the head. These shapes call for custom-fabricated solutions, such as shaped or stepped shades, split zones across the transom and careful sun-path planning. The goal in King City is usually to preserve a panoramic view while controlling the strong low sun across the property, and to give the room a finished, warm feeling in the evening. Luxury window treatments here are about restraint and fit as much as product.
Common Mistakes in Great Room Window Coverings
Specifying battery motors on tall windows. It seems like a saving at the start, and it becomes a scaffolding call every time the batteries need attention. If wiring is possible, hardwire the great room.
Undersizing the tube. A shade that fits the window but not the physics will sag, curl or telescope within months. Tube diameter, motor and fabric must be specified together.
Treating the whole wall as one shade. Splitting tall openings into zones usually produces a better-performing, longer-lasting result than a single enormous drop.
Leaving the window coverings until the end. Pockets, blocking and wiring are inexpensive during construction and disruptive afterwards. Include them in the rough-in plan.
Choosing openness before seeing the light. The difference between 3% and 5% is obvious in the room and nearly invisible in a showroom. Evaluate samples in the actual space, at the times of day the sun matters.
Serving Oakville, King City and Surrounding Communities
Luna Window Coverings is a mobile showroom. We bring full-size fabric books, motorization samples and laser measurement equipment directly to your home or job site in Oakville, King City and the surrounding GTA communities, working with homeowners, interior designers and builders from early planning through installation. For an overview of the areas we serve, see our service areas page or our Oakville window coverings page, browse our full product range, or get a preliminary idea of scope with the online quote calculator.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you retrofit motorized shades if there is no pre-wiring?
In most cases, yes. Low-voltage cable can usually be routed through accessible ceiling, attic or adjacent closet cavities to a power supply, with any small drywall access points patched and painted. Where a visible run is unavoidable, the wiring can be concealed inside a painted fascia or a colour-matched raceway. Only when no wiring route is practical do we discuss rechargeable motors, with the understanding that they will need periodic access at height. We assess the options during the in-home consultation, because the best route depends on the framing, the ceiling construction and where the power supply can live.
How much does it cost to cover two-story great room windows in the GTA?
Two-story window walls are quoted as engineered systems rather than as individual blinds, so there is no useful per-window figure. The main cost drivers are the total glazed area, the number of shade zones, tube size and motor class, the fabric or drapery selected, the head detail (recessed pocket or fascia), the control platform, and the access equipment required for installation. Rather than quoting from a chart, Luna measures the opening with laser equipment on site and provides a written proposal that itemizes each of those elements, so you can see where the investment goes.
Is hardwired motorization worth it over battery for windows above 15 feet?
For most great rooms, yes. Above roughly 15 feet, every battery change or motor service call requires scaffolding or a lift. Hardwired low-voltage motors remove that recurring task, deliver the torque that heavy, tall fabric drops need, and integrate cleanly with lighting and home-automation platforms for scheduled operation. Battery motors still have a place on lower windows or in homes where wiring is not possible, but on a two-story window wall, hardwired is the more dependable long-term choice.

